Friday, March 16, 2012

Hiking the Northumberland Coastal Path

By Mark Townsend


Northumberland's coast is known for its wild, superlative beauty with long beaches of golden sand, old fashioned little fishing towns, impressive castles perched on rocky headlands and abounding birdlife.Constantly fought over by the English and the Scots, Berwick-upon-Tweed modified hands about 14 times in 300 years - the huge curtain walls and gateways encircling the town are unique in Britain and are amongst the finest ramparts in Europe.

From Berwick the trail meanders along beaches of golden sand to the tidal causeway linking Holy Island with the mainland. From here there is a choice of routes onto the island to explore the town, priory and castle - over the causeway or barefooted across the sands on the Pilgrim's Way, marked by a line of barnacle-encrusted poles. Holy Island has an illustrious history. It was here that St. Aidan founded a priory that changed into a major centre of Christianity, learning and dexterity, as epitomizied by the Lindisfarne Gospels.

The monastery had 16 bishops in all, the most celebrated being St Cuthbert, who travelled widely spreading the Gospel. After his death the island changed into a place of pilgrimage, till the priests deserted the island in fear of marauding Vikings. Lindisfarne Castle was built in the 16th century to defend the island from Scottish raiders. It was restored and converted into a fairytale castle by Sir Edward Lutyens in 1903, with a charming walled garden planned by Gertrude Jekyll.

From Holy Island, the trail follows paths thru field and forest to St Cuthbert's Cavern, found on a low ridge that provides fabulous perspectives of the coast. After exploring the cavern, where the friars of Lindisfarne spent their first night after fleeing the Vikings, the trail descends thru Belford to rejoin the coast at Bamburgh, a pretty village dominated by its gigantic castle significantly balanced on a big crag rising out of the ocean. The castle ramparts provide breathtaking views of the Farne Islands and along the miles of golden sand that lead to the spectacular ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle and the fascinating fishing village of Craster.

From Craster, the trail continues through the quaint hamlet of Alnmouth to the historic city of Warkworth, with its provoking castle and medieval fortified bridge.

Walking the Northumberland Coastal Path, along the 61 mile trail can be broken into an initenerary from 4 to 9 days of walking to make allowance for more traveller stopping time at these rich heritage sites.




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