The word cenote is derived from the Mayan word Dzonot, which means sacred well. The porous limestone geological makeup of the Yucatan Peninsula is unusual in that there are no surface rivers or streams, but an extensive system of underground lakes and rivers. A cenote is an underground lake, which was held sacred by the ancient Mayans as a place of worship, and also served as their vital source of water.
The Yucatan Peninsula has some very well-known cenotes - at Chichen Itza, Valladolid and Tulum - but there are hundreds, if not thousands more waiting to be discovered. Some cenotes are open to the skies, like the cenote of Dzibilchaltún, but most are in deep underground caves, accessible by ladder or staircase, or sometimes even just by rope.
The three underground cenotes of Cuzamá, also known as the cenotes of Chunkanán, are very special, as they are hidden deep in the mayan jungle, and only accessible by taking a horse-drawn mini-rail truck. Travelling by truck seven kilometres into the forest is part of the adventure.
There are three cenotes open to the public, and the journey usually takes about three hours, allowing for a half-hour stop at each cenote. Make sure you take your swim-suit, as the beautiful turquoise water will prove irresistible.
The first cenote is called Chelentun (water in rainbow rock), and has the easiest access. A cement and wooden staircase takes you down to a partially-covered cave with clear sparkling water which starts off quite shallow, but as you swim into the darkest reaches at the back of the cave, the water becomes very deep.
The second cenote, Chansinic'che (red tree ants), is a little more difficult to access. You climb down a wooden staircase under low overhanging rock, so please mind your head. This cenote is much more closed, with just an opening in the roof from where intrepid swimmers can jump down the 14 meters or so into the deep water.
The third cenote Bolonchoojol (nine mouse holes) is much the most difficult to access, but worth the effort. You climb through a very small hole, down a vertical ladder made from railway track, into what appears to be the depths of darkness. Suddenly, the cave opens up, and the sun shines down through the single hole in the roof, its beams lighting up the clear sparkling turquoise water. For me, the most beautiful of the three cenotes, Bolonchoojol has a magical appearance, with stalactites reflecting in the water, looking as though you have entered a science fiction movie.
When you visit the cenotes of Cuzamá, make sure you take drinking water with you, and if you feel the need for an insect repellent, I recommend you bring an "eco" repellent that will not contaminate the water. The trucks have roofs, so you are not exposed to the sun.
Part of the fun of the adventure is when your truck meets with another coming in the opposite direction. This is a one-track route, so depending on some unfathomable priority system, one driver has to stop and heave his heavy truck off the rail, to allow the other to pass.
To find the three cenotes, when you arrive at Cuzamá, turn right off the Acancéh - Homún road towards Chunkanán. There are two places where you can take the cenote tour. The first is on the road between Cuzamá and Chunkanán, and a man with a red flag will indicate where you can park.
However, I recommend you ignore him and continue on to the village of Chunkanán, which is the original starting point for the cenote tour. Here you will find a typical mayan village, with cottages with palapa roofs, dogs, hens, turkeys, children... the everyday life of a traditional mayan village. The truck-drivers and their horses are waiting beside the restaurant in the centre of the village from nine in the morning until dusk.
There is a local saying "once you have swum in a Mayan cenote, you will have to return". A visit to Yucatan is not complete without swimming in a cenote, and the three cenotes of Cuzamá are among the most beautiful in the state of Yucatan.
Elizabeth Arnott has lived in Mexico for more than ten years, and owns a small rental in the village of Chunkanán. Consisting of three mayan-style cottages with palapa roofs and a large swimming pool set in an acre of private tropical gardens, Sac Nicté is the ideal place to stay for a few days to relax, and visit the three cenotes and many other cenotes nearby known only to the locals. For a unique opportunity to experience life in a typical mayan village, please visit her website: http://www.mayanvillagerental.com/cenotes.htm
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